The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute

Introduction

The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a remarkable collection of fashion and elegance. In this blog post, we will delve into the meticulous process of preparing and preserving pieces for a curator’s tribute to Philippe de Montebello. We will explore the intricate details of iconic designs by Madame Grès and Paul Poiret, shedding light on their innovative techniques and lasting influence in the world of fashion.

Madame Grès’ Grecian Style Gown

Conservator Chris Policy is tasked with preparing a stunning Grecian style gown by Madame Grès from 1965 for the upcoming exhibition. Despite its seemingly simple appearance, the gown is actually elaborate in construction. As Policy steams and humidifies the gown to remove creases, she reveals the intricate layers of pleated fabric and the sheath skirt base. Madame Grès’ draping technique, influenced by her background as a sculptor, creates a timeless and elegant silhouette that adorned luminaries like the Duchess of Windsor and Jackie Kennedy.

Paul Poiret’s Gold Lamé Dress

Another masterpiece in the collection is a gold lamé dress from the 1920s by French designer Paul Poiret. Known for liberating women from corsets and tailored constraints, Poiret’s design exudes luxury and fluidity. The weighted silk fabric, resembling liquid gold, requires delicate handling to stabilize and support it during the exhibition. The intricate braiding and dyeing of silk threads showcase the attention to detail in preserving this iconic piece. The signature rose label sewn into the interior waistband serves as a crucial element in documenting the garment’s provenance.

Paul Poiret’s Cocoon Coat

A quintessential piece from Paul Poiret’s 1919 collection is the cocoon coat, characterized by its one-piece construction and distinctive shape. The coat, designed to drape elegantly on the body and trail along the ground, epitomizes Poiret’s innovative approach to silhouette and form. These signature pieces from Poiret’s collection exemplify the artistry and craftsmanship that define his enduring legacy in the world of fashion.

As we explore the meticulous process of preparing and preserving these iconic pieces, we gain a deeper appreciation for the artistry and innovation of designers like Madame Grès and Paul Poiret. Their timeless creations continue to inspire and captivate audiences, showcasing the enduring power of fashion as a form of artistic expression.


1. How does conservator Chris Policy prepare Madame Grès’ Grecian style gown for exhibition?
– Conservator Chris Policy prepares Madame Grès’ Grecian style gown for exhibition by steaming or humidifying it to remove creases and reveal the intricate construction of pleated fabric and sheath skirt base.

2. What is the significance of the signature rose label in Paul Poiret’s gold lamé dress?
– The signature rose label sewn into the interior waistband of Paul Poiret’s gold lamé dress is crucial for documenting the garment’s provenance and adding to its historical significance.

3. How does Paul Poiret’s cocoon coat demonstrate his innovative approach to design?
– Paul Poiret’s cocoon coat from 1919 exemplifies his innovative approach to design with its one-piece construction, distinctive shape, and elegant draping that follows the body’s contours.

4. What techniques are used to stabilize and support the delicate weighted silk fabric of Paul Poiret’s gold lamé dress?
– Techniques such as braiding and dyeing silk threads are used to stabilize and support the delicate weighted silk fabric of Paul Poiret’s gold lamé dress, showcasing meticulous attention to detail in preservation.

5. What qualities make the designs of Madame Grès and Paul Poiret timeless and influential in the world of fashion?
– The timeless elegance, innovative construction techniques, and meticulous attention to detail in the designs of Madame Grès and Paul Poiret have solidified their lasting influence in the world of fashion, inspiring generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.